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Just as humans can be bad tempered, so can cats. And unsurprisingly, much anger in cats derives from fear, so placing a cat in any situation where his fear emotions arise will often result in an angry cat. Knowing how to minimize and remove such situations is an important part of calming an angry cat, and keeping him that way.
via How to of the Day on 2/1/12
Edit Steps
- Understand the behavioral drives behind the angry cat. Cats are not as domesticated as dogs and easily revert to their wild state. This means that cats are one step away from being a wild animal still and many wild animals live in a constant state of alertness for danger, including a fear of people.[1] Top of the list for inducing fear is strangers, simply because a cat doesn't know what that person is all about until they've had time to observe and trust that the person is cat friendly. Moreover, a cat that witnesses violent behavior from a human being may go on to associate that behavior with all persons who look similar and may slink away or become enraged with any person exhibiting similar features. However, beyond fear comes anger and what starts out as fear can soon turn to anger, as a cat's small frontal lobes (the brain's emotional brakes) means they're fast to anger and slow to cool down.
- One reason for anger in cats is "redirected aggression". This term applies when one cat takes out its anger on another cat or person even though the source of the anger was someone or some other cat completely different. If this happens to two cats living together, it can be quite difficult to get them to get along with each other again, depending on how serious the attack was.[2]
- Illness and pain can cause a cat to become angry, in an attempt to keep people and other animals away. Just as with a human in pain, the thought of being touched can be too much. Common causes include high fever, tooth pain, gingivitis, abscesses, wounds, arthritis, fractures, ear problems and sprains or strains. Fur balls can sometimes trigger an angry response in a cat where the fur ball is causing colic or gastric inflammation.[3] See your vet immediately. Moreover, if you notice that your cat seems to have undergone a personality change and has turned into an angry cat most of the time, ask a vet for advice. Your cat may have neurological or liver problems.
- Petting-induced aggression is common in some cats. However, this should not be confused with anger. It's not entirely sure why cats do this (and male cats do it more) but it's thought that maybe it's the cat's way of saying "that's enough thanks" or the cat becomes so dozy with pleasure that he suddenly startles awake and bites in self-defense.[4]
- Know what an angry cat looks like. An angry cat is probably fairly obvious to many a cat owner but it is important to know how to distinguish between a cat that is afraid and one that has become angry. A cat that is angry will puff out his fur, arch his back and spit, while a cat that is afraid will not puff up his fur or attack.[5] Be aware that a cat can turn from being calm to afraid or angry in a matter of seconds.
- Know what play-fighting looks like. If you have more than one cat in the home, it's important to be able to tell the difference between real aggression and mock fighting. Cats that are play-fighting may look violent but it's all posture. Look closely (within reason); play-fighting cats don't have their claws out and their bites are small and harmless.
- Take care of your own safety before all else. If your cat is angry with you or is experiencing redirected aggression, then you are a possible target for an attack, which can result in scratches, bites, cuts and the like. If you actually need to handle the cat, wear protective clothing. However, the best approach is to not handle the cat at all until he has calmed down; he doesn't need love and hugs while he's getting over a tense experience, he needs space.
- Have a water pistol readily accessible if you live with a cat. It can be an ideal method for squirting an angry cat without having to get your hands involved. It might be enough to separate brawling cats and it can certainly be a good source of defense if the cat decides to attack you through redirected aggression.
- Give the cat space. Leave your cat alone for 10 to 20 minutes to have some time to calm down. However, do whatever you can to remove the threat to your cat. This may include removing another cat to a different part of the house, asking a stranger to leave or having anyone or anything that appears to be upsetting the cat move elsewhere. Provided the cat cannot see the source of the threat, this will give him a chance to start calming down.
- Be aware that once angered, a cat can remain aroused for a long time. If the source of the threat is another cat, you may have to keep the cats separated for a long time and then begin a desensitization program involving gradual reintroduction. Don't rush anything if this is cause of the cat's anger.
- Approach your cat slowly and with caution. After you have given your cat time and space to calm down, approach him cautiously. You need to be sure that all visible signs of anger are gone, including the raised fur, hissing and arched back. However, even with these visible signs gone, your cat may still be harboring feelings of anger and be flighty and afraid, so taking it slowly is important.
- Slowly reach out. Let him appraise your hand before actually touching him. If he shrinks back, hisses, spits or claws out, he's not ready yet, so give him some more time.
- Let him smell your fingers so that he knows it is you, his trusted companion. If he responds favorably, consider giving him a few of his favorite petting strokes, such as a stroke on the head or back.
- Don't crowd him out or try hugging him close. He is still in a wary state and petting is good enough for now.
- If he is still biting, scratching or growling, back off for more time. Walk away pretending he is not even there. He'll get calmer.
- Use food. Shake the biscuit box or open a can of favorite food and place it in his bowl. This might be enough to bring him around to feeling normal again. Be sure that there is plenty of fresh water available as he may be very thirsty after such high emotions. However, don't force food or drink on your cat; he'll come if he's interested and if not, he knows it's there for him when he's ready.
- Remain calm, loving and move slowly. While the cat is calming down, anything sudden or loud might reactivate his emotions. Talk to him lovingly, be reassuring with your gestures and ask other members of the household to keep noise and movement down for a few hours.
- Deal with any source of aggravation for your cat. After your cat has been angry, it can be a very harrowing experience for you as an owner or companion. Seeing your dear little moggy spitting and biting can be distressing, especially if you've never experienced an angry cat before. The best thing you can do now is to find ways to ensure that this doesn't repeat. If it's obvious to you what set your cat off, deal with as best you can. This might mean shutting your cat away before answering the door to strangers or when receiving strangers. It might mean blocking off an outdoor scene that seems to frighten your cat. Or perhaps you've introduced a new cat to the household recently and your cat is jealous; in this case, careful handling and time will be needed to gradually introduce the two, as well as reassuring your first cat that he is not forgotten. If you don't know what set off your cat, spend time observing him to try and pick up subtle signs of fear or irritability.
- If the source of aggravation is a neighbor's cat, keep your cat indoors or arrange with your neighbor for different times for the cats to be outside. Explain to your neighbor that this benefits their cat as much as your own.
- If the source of aggravation is another cat living in your home, you may need to make some hard choices. Can the cats be reintroduced through gradual building up of trust and desensitization? If so, great. If not, you may need to consider rehousing one of the cats or keeping them permanently separated. If you have a large house and yard, this may not be such a challenge, as they will have plenty of places to hide from one another but keep feeding bowls, etc. well apart.
- If it's visits to the vet that bring on your cat's anger, warn your vet who may prescribe a mild sedative before each vet visit. Try keeping your cat calm by desensitizing him to his carry cage in the home environment, and perhaps covering it more when taking him to the vet.
- Consider anti-anxiety medication if nothing seems to keep your cat calm. Some cats need the intervention of a vet and medication. Don't be afraid to raise the matter with your cat's vet, to see what can be done for your cat.
- When your cat's male and you bring in a new female cat - new kitten, new cat, new roommate's cat - the new female may become very aggressive toward him at first and take weeks to settle down and make friends with him. This is natural. She's establishing her dominance by gender - cats are matriarchal. An eight week old female kitten will march right up to a big 20 pound tomcat, hiss and spit in his face, blow herself up huge and hit him. The correct gentlemanly response from a tom is to back up and act submissive. He'll do that for a few days to a few weeks until she calms down and it's necessary for them to get to know each other. If he doesn't back down, there is a problem and consulting a cat behaviorist might be a good idea, especially if she's small and might get injured in a fight. But I've never seen a healthy male, neutered or not, do anything but defer to Outraged Female Authority from a smaller female.
- Female cats may fight over dominance between themselves, eventually they may sort it out territorially or one of them will defer to the other as the queen of the house. This can be nerve wracking but it's also part of their natural behavior.
- Non-neutered toms will struggle over territory by spraying on things and by fighting. It's not a good idea to have two of them in the same house unless they already get along well, or it'll get smelly. Squirt them with water. You can also go around cleaning up the spots and spraying over them yourself with after shave to convince the cat that a 150 pound human male is the Big Tom in the apartment, not the 15lb tom. He'll settle down as long as you keep up the occasional aftershave spritz.
Edit Tips
- Ensure that your cat's flea and worm treatments are totally up-to-date. These pests can aggravate a cat.
- An overweight cat can become aggressive if unable to groom himself properly and he is flea-infested. De-flea him and talk to your vet about weight loss.
- A cat that has been to a cattery or cared for by someone else in your absence may be aggressive on your return. In this case, it will probably take a few days to re-establish the old patterns so that he knows he can trust that you're properly back again.
- Ask around whether there are any new animals in the neighborhood if you're not sure what is upsetting your cat. A new dog, cat or other animal in the area could be the cause.
- Changes in routine can cause a cat to feel fearful and therefore angry. When changing furniture around, moving home or working new hours, etc., be sure that your cat is kept reassured and has access to a safe, quiet place and continues to be fed, groomed and attended to at regular, set times.
- If you have to restrain an angry cat, use the "Kitten Grip" grabbing the scruff of the neck. Pick the cat up by the scruff and hold it out at arm's length where it can't bite or claw you. Most cats by instinct will respond to this by passive submission and act like trusting kittens. The longer you know your cat and the more your cat trusts you, the better this works. Do not try it with strange cats, only with a cat you know trusts you. If you got the cat as a kitten, this ALWAYS works if applied early when it's just a tiny handful of kitten.
- If you have to restrain an angry strange cat, say, your apartment door was open and your neighbor's cat walked in to pick a fight with your cat, use a bath towel. Throw the towel over the cat. Bundle it up fast so that only its face peeks out and hold it firmly so it can't squirm and bite you. Then go down the hall and knock on doors till you find out whose cat it is. You'll deliver an angry but uninjured cat. If it's large or aggressive toward you, put on heavy gloves before tossing the towel. Use a BIG towel for this, a bath towel or beach towel, not just a little hand towel. The idea is to keep all the feet and claws in the towel and then hold it firmly enough the jaws can't reach you.
- When your cat likes to play-aggressive, learn the signals and get a toy that keeps your hands away from paws and teeth. Your cat may not mean to claw you, but they often grab. Playing "got your paw" will get you grabbed with claws. If this happens, hold still till the cat disengages its claws, you will get much less injuries.
- You can tell a play bite because the cat won't break the skin. Again, don't move, just hold your hand or arm there so the cat feels silly just holding your arm in its mouth and lets go. Dragging your hand away fast from a play-bite or play grab can cause small injuries. Experienced cat owners get used to them - but this is also where the Feather Wand or pole with a string and dangling toy are great to let your cat play rough without hurting you. Always respond to play-aggression by giving the cat a toy, it's in the mood to play and will keep trying to play if you don't. Just throwing a toy mouse or ball is sometimes enough to distract the cat.
- If you break up with a domestic partner or a regular housemate moves out, your cat may be angry and miss the person who left. There's nothing you can do about this but talk to the cat as if it was human and explain that they left and you're sad too, give the cat time to grieve and be extra nice to your cat till he gets over it. Grieving cats can get touchy and angry about little things that didn't bother them normally, it's a natural part of grief and if you're patient the cat will eventually come out of it. Don't return to a bad relationship because the cat misses your former partner, that will just prolong the situation and put both of you through it twice.
Edit Warnings
- Never use violence toward an animal. It solves nothing, is cruel and results in an animal that distrusts you intensely. If you feel out of your depth in dealing with the cat, leave it well alone. This is safest option and everyone, you and the cat, will eventually calm down. Do not see it as the cat being spiteful towards you; cats are responding as wild animals from fear and self-protection, not out of malice.
- Cats only respond to positive reinforcement and cannot be trained by negative reinforcement or punishment. Anything you do to try and retrain a cat's behavior must be based on positive reinforcement only.
- If the source of anger is someone in your household, you might need to consider giving your cat anti-anxiety medication to help him become reacquainted with this person. In some cases, this person may need to readjust their own attitude toward cats. That's a human-to-human issue and isn't dealt with here!
- Don't ever yell at your cat. Verbal aggression will also make them mad without their really getting the point. Calm down, think through what the cat did and arrange your life so the cat doesn't get mad about it again.
- Always keep the litter pan clean. Cats will get very angry about a dirty litter pan sometimes. They're good about reminding you - get up and do it at the first plaintive meow. They will sometimes lead the way and point at it. "Dude, the toilet is dirty, I don't want to use it because it's filthy." That's when to clean it.
- If you have multiple cats, they may fight over whose litter pan is whose. Some cats don't mind sharing, others do. Make sure each cat has a clean litter pan central to its territory - its favorite place to hang out. Whether they allow each other to use their litter pans is up to them and how well they get along, but this one privacy concern is important to helping multiple cats get along.
- Food and water dishes work the same way. If they fight over food, set out food dishes in separate areas at more or less the same time. The bullying cat can't be in two places at once and the bullied cat will get to eat.
- Talk to your cat calmly as if it understood what you're saying. You'd be surprised how many English words they understand and can't pronounce. Sometimes they pick it up from your body language, eye direction and so on too, it's not just the words - but when you say it calmly in English, you're also saying it clearly in Cat when you look at the litter pan or the clawed up couch. If you ask nicely, sometimes a cat will understand and that can resolve the conflict. Be sure to provide a substitute they like better if it's something like "Don't claw the couch" - spray the couch with some scent the cat doesn't like - there are many commercial products - and then get the cat a cool cat tree and don't ever sit on it, leave it to them. Cats get territorial about their stuff and they understand it if you do too.
- Water pistols are the only negative reinforcement that actually works. That has to be used only when the cat is in the middle of misbehaving. One in about 20 cats enjoys being sprayed with water, if your cat likes it, then just turn it into a game and focus on positive reinforcement to train your cat into a good roommate.
- Don't break your cat's trust. If you are consistently calm and gentle, provide what the cat needs and wants, pet when the cat wants to be petted, your cat will trust you more every day.
- When you relocate, expect your cat to be unsettled for a while unless you move so often your cat is used to the process of moving. Just take it easy, give the cat some space and accompany the trip with new treats and toys so it's got something to look forward to in "moving" besides getting stuffed in a carrier and having to explore a new territory. There should be good new things in the new place so the cat doesn't get homesick for the old place.
Edit Things You'll Need
- Calm area for cat, space
- Food and water
- Removal of the trigger (if known)
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